Tourist attraction④

Guantouling (冠头岭)

Guantouling is a hilly area in the southwest of Beihai. It is located 8 km (5 miles) from downtown, and its overall length is 3 km (1.9 miles). Guantouling got its name because from a distance it looks like a hat. It consists of Wanglouling (望楼岭), Fengmenling (风门岭), Yajiling (丫髻岭), Tianmaling (天马岭), etc. Wanglouling is the main peak, with an altitude of 120 meters (394 ft).

Now the area has been designated as a National Forest Park, and it is covered with dense forests of Casuarinaceae, Chinese red pine (马尾松, Pinus massoniana), Acacia confusa, etc. And it is an important stop for migratory birds. During the migration season, various types of birds are visible in the area, including raptors such as grey-faced buzzard, Japanese sparrowhawk, Amur falcon, crested honey buzzard, etc.

◇    The Eight Views of Beihai "Guanfeng Lansheng" (冠峰览胜): There is a hill about 1.5 km south of Wanglouling. The top of the hill has scenic views of the sea and surrounding area.

◇    "Haiya Shuangtao" (海涯双涛), one of the Eight Views of Beihai, is a term for the waves and waving of pine trees that can be seen on the southwestern coast.

◇    The Eight Views of Beihai "Longyan Chaoyin" (龙岩潮音): There was a sea cave with a height of 4 m and a depth of 11 m under the cliffs on the southwestern coast. The cave was called Wanglongyan (王龙岩) because there was a local legend that a dragon lived in it. People made the cave into an ancestral temple to Dragon King (龙王) and called it "Lianyang Gudong" (廉阳古洞). In the past there were many stones with a height of 2-3 m in the beach in front of the cave. The stones made a thunderous sound when the waves hit.

Many young men and women come to visit Guantouling because it is said that the ancestral temples here have miraculous powers.

◇    Shennongmiao (神农庙): The temple is located on Maanling (马鞍岭) in the southeast of Guantouling, and it enshrines Shennong, Tianfei (天妃, Mazu) and Lu Ban (鲁班).

◇    Sanpomiao (三婆庙) and Dawangmiao (大王庙): The building is located on the southern tip of Guantouling, and it enshrines several gods including Tianfei.

PS: There is also a temple (built in 2009) named Pudusi (普度寺) in the south of Guantouling.

■ Bus routes: No. 6

Bus No. 6 (6路): 6:30~18:00, ¥2.00

Nanwan (南澫)

Nanwan is a small fishing village near Guantouling. The population is 600-700, and most of the residents make their living by fishing. The village was gradually formed from the late Ming dynasty onwards. At that time it was under the jurisdiction of Gulizhai (古里寨, a fortress built in the early Ming dynasty), and was a place where people collected pearls. As more and more people settled in the area, the village was named Nanwan which means there is the sea to the south. The fishermen of Nanwan frequently visited the harbor between Dijiao (地角) and Waisha (外沙), and they called the sea north of the harbor "Beimianhai" (北面海). Afterwards, the village formed near the harbor was called Beihai (北海).

Wudimiao (武帝庙)

Wudimiao (original name is Guandimiao (关帝庙)) is an ancestral temple beside the road in the village. The temple was built in the period of the Kangxi Emperor (康熙年间), and it was moved twice in the period of the Daoguang (道光) and Tongzhi (同治) and then renovated twice, in 1907 and 1990. It enshrines Guan Yu (关羽), Guan Ping (关平), Zhou Cang (周仓) in the back hall, and enshrines Huaguang Dadi (华光大帝, Matian Jun (马天君), a defender of Taoism) and Sanpopo (三婆婆, i.e. Mazu (妈祖)/Tianhou (天后)) in the rooms on both sides. And there is a "Qifu" (祈福, pray for blessings) event during the Yuanxiao Festival.

Qianjiang (乾江)

Qianjiang (old name is Qianti (乾体), which was called "Kan lai" (勤礼) by residents of the Beihai area) is a village southwest of Lianzhou Town (廉州镇) in Hepu County (合浦县), and it has more than 2000 years of history. The area around Qianjiang was called Qiantigang (乾体港), and it was a port of departure of the Maritime Silk Road. During the Western Han dynasty, products like silk, tea leaves, porcelains were exported through the port to Southeast Asia.

The place is famous for dog meat dishes made by using a special recipe, and therefore it is also called Dogmeat Street (狗肉街) by residents of the Beihai area. Xiazhi (夏至) is the busiest time of year, because there is a custom that people eat dog meat and lychees on Xiazhi in Hepu (合浦).

◇    Etymology: According to legend, the area was first settled by three brothers of the Chen family. The eldest was Qiande (乾德) who made a lot of money in business, the second was Qianti (乾体) who read a lot and gained an official position, the youngest was Qianjiang (乾江) who was engaged in fishing and shipping. So, people named the village after the second brother who had authority. And the main street of the village was called Qiande Dajie (乾德大街), and the nearby small river was called Qianjiang. The village was renamed Qianjiang during liberation (1949).

◇    Kan lai po (勤礼婆) is a term for a woman of Qianjiang. From ancient times, the women of Qianjiang managed the household by selling seafood, and the men studied to pass the imperial examination. Every day the women carried seafood to the market of Lianzhou (廉州) to sell by using carrying poles. People were impressed that they shouted to passers-by to move aside on the way. And there are many stories that they united to fight against unfair trading.

■ Bus routes: No. 10

Bus No. 10 (10路): 6:40~18:00, ¥3.50

Dijiao (地角)

Dijiao is a fishing village in the northwest of Beihai. The village got its name because it was formed in the protruding area of the coast. Most of the residents believe in Erlang Shen (二郎神).

PS: There is a female militia company (established in 1963) in Dijiao.

Dawanggong (大王宫)

The date of construction is unclear but is thought to be in the Qing dynasty. Dawanggong was demolished in 1987 and rebuilt on Dijiaoling (地角岭, a hill southwest of the village) in 1989. It enshrines gods such as Erlang Shen, Jindian Dawang (金殿大王), Zhengshi Furen (郑氏夫人). On the birthday of Erlang Shen, local residents hold a ceremony and invite Cantonese opera companies here.

◇    The legend: There was an old woman who lived in Dijiao. One day, the old woman noticed that a big stone was following her while collecting seafood on the beach. She said to the stone, "If you can help catch ten horseshoe crabs, I will accept you as a god." Later that day, the old woman really caught ten horseshoe crabs. So, she kept her promise and carried the stone and crabs to the village by carrying pole. The rope broke suddenly in a place and the stone became too heavy to move. Shortly afterwards, the villagers heard of this and built an ancestral temple in that place. The stone was worshiped as Jindian Dawang, and the old woman was honored as Zhengshi Furen in the temple after her death.

Dijiao Paotai (地角炮台)

After Feng Zicai (冯子材, a native of Qinzhou (钦州)) defeated the French troops in the Zhennan Pass (镇南关, Friendship Pass) during the Sino-French War in 1885, Zongbing (总兵, a brigadier general) Liang Zhengyuan (梁正源) received orders from the Qing government to build several artillery batteries in the coastal area of Beihai. There were three artillery batteries on Dijiaoling. In the Battle of South Guangxi (part of the Second Sino-Japanese War) in November 1939, the batteries on Dijiaoling were destroyed by gunfire from Japanese warships.

■ Bus routes: No. 2

Bus No. 2 (2路): 6:15~21:00, ¥1.50

Tourist attraction③ Beihai Laojie (北海老街)

Beihai Laojie (北海老街)

Laojie is a term for Zhongshan Lu (中山路) and Zhuhai Lu (珠海路). Zhongshan Lu is a road that crosses the old downtown area from east to west. The length of the road is 2 km, and the width is 9 m. Its original name was Niuchelu (牛车路), and it was formed during the late Qing Dynasty. In 1927, the road was expanded and renamed to honor Sun Yat-sen (孫中山).

Zhuhai Lu is about 100 m north of Zhongshan Lu, and it was built in 1883. The road is 1.44 km in length, 9 m in width, and it consists of three parts, east, middle and west. There are a variety of two- or three-story Qilou (骑楼)^[1] along the street. Zhuhai Lu was the busiest street in Beihai. The stores on the street traded mainly in dried fish and seafood, silk and satin from Suhang (苏杭), fishing tackle, etc. The trade declined gradually after 1927, and the street became a residential area. In the early modern period, Zhuhai Lu was highly acclaimed by Chinese and foreign historians and architects, and therefore it has been turned into a tourist attraction.

PS: There is also a television drama (name: "海鲨1号") set in Laojie.

Moruxiang (摸乳巷)

There are about 23 alleys in the Laojie area, and the narrowest alley is Moruxiang. Moruxiang, also called Gentleman Alley (君子巷), is located over 50 m east of the intersection of Zhuhai Xilu (珠海西路) and Sichuan Lu (四川路). It is less than 200 m in length, 70 cm in width, and it connects Zhuhai Lu with Shajijie (沙脊街). It was said that there were several brothels in the area and thus the alley got its funny name. The alleys in Laojie were built so narrow in order to avoid strong winds.

Maruichi Drugstore (丸一药房)

Maruichi Drugstore is a three-story Qilou located in Zhuhai Zhonglu (珠海中路), and it was founded by Junzo Nakano (中野 順三). Now it is turned into the Beihai National Security Education Center (北海市国家安全教育馆). On one side of the entrance there can be seen a plate which is inscribed with a description of the 9-3 Incident (九三事件).

◇      9-3 Incident (九三事件): Junzo Nakano was allegedly accused of spying for the Japanese army and killed in his shop on September 3rd, 1936. The Japanese army approached the coast of Beihai and attempted to land twice on the excuse of his death. After several rounds of negotiations, the situation was settled at the end of the year.

Beihai Ming-Qing Woodcarving Museum (北海明清木雕博物馆)

It is a private museum located in Zhuhai Zhonglu and has thousands of wood carvings of the Ming-Qing era.

Yongjilong (永濟隆)

Yongjilong is one of the earliest reinforced concrete buildings in Beihai, and it is located in Zhuhai Zhonglu. It was built in 1930 and owned by Chen Baitang (陈柏堂, a native of Fangcheng (防城, Fangchenggang)). His cousin, Chen Jitang (陈济棠), often stayed here on his way home during his government of the Guangdong province (1929~1936). And the building was used as the military headquarters of the Kuomintang before liberation (1949).

Xitai (戏台)

Xitai is an outdoor theater located in Zhuhai Donglu (珠海东路). Cantonese opera (粵劇, a type of Chinese opera originating in southern China's Cantonese culture) was introduced into Beihai during the late Qing Dynasty. Local residents invited theater companies here on holidays. There were 8~9 Xiyuan (戏院, special theater) in Beihai during the Minguo (民国) period.

◇      City Theater Company of Beihai (北海市粤剧团): It has performed 178 Cantonese operas since foundation in 1951, such as Baoliandeng (宝莲灯, Lotus Lantern), Honglou Eryou (红楼二尤, a part of the Dream of the Red Chamber), Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai (梁山伯与祝英台, Butterfly Lovers), etc. Current representative works include modern operas such as Chaozhang Chaoluo (潮涨潮落), Haimen Zhuchao (海门珠潮), Liuxingyu (流星雨, meteor shower), Zhuhuan Hepu (珠还合浦), etc.

Jielongqiao Shuangshuijing (接龙桥双水井)

There are two water wells made of blue bricks in Zhuhai Donglu. They are named for a stone bridge named "Jielongqiao" (接龙桥) that existed nearby. The wells were built and owned by the Pang family, and they have more than 200 years of history. They are 4~5 m in depth, 1.7~1.8 m in diameter, and the outside are made of granite blocks. The two wells are placed north to south at intervals of about 3 m. The north well has an octagon shape, and the south one has a hexagon shape. During the late Qing and early Minguo period, the water of the wells not only supplied the neighborhood, but was also sold to freighters by using a canal next to the well.

◇      Guanyintang Shuangshuijing (观音堂双水井)

The wells are also called "Ganlujing" (甘露井) and located at the west end of Heping Lu (和平路). They are named for a Guanyintang (观音堂, a temple dedicated to Guanyin) that existed nearby. The date of building is unknown, but they were renovated in 1887. The two wells are placed north to south at intervals of over 2 m. The north well has a hexagon shape, and the south one has an octagon shape. And there are three stones embedded in the wall north of the wells. The middle stone is a shrine to the god of wells, and the writing on the left and right stones records the reason for the renovation and the names of donors. During the late Qing and early Minguo period, most of the residents of Laojie fetched drinking water from the wells here.

◇      Qixi Water (七夕水)

On the seventh day of the seventh lunar month, there is a custom that the residents of Laojie gather around the well to draw water before noon. The water doesn't go bad for a long time, and it is said that it has the effect of "清热解毒" and can be used to treat Chuangdu (疮毒, a boil). People usually put the water into a jar for a night and then use to steep winter melons. And some people even seal the jar for a month and then use the water. That night there is also a custom that people draw water from the wells and use to wash their hair or bodies. It is believed to make bad luck go away.

Beihaiguan Dalou (北海关大楼旧址)

The Old Custom House of Beihai is located at the east end of Zhuhai Donglu, and it is the first customs house in Beihai. The customs house is a three-story, Xuanlang (券廊式) style square building with an area of 1000 m², and it was built in 1883. The Beihai Customs was established in 1877, and it was called "Beihaiguan" (北海关) for short. At that time westerners held most of the important posts such as Inspector (税务司), Deputy Inspector, Assistant (帮办), etc.

Qing Dynasty Post Office of Beihai (大清邮政北海分局旧址)

The post office is located near the intersection of Zhongshan Donglu (中山东路) and Haiguan Lu (海关路). It is a one-story rectangle building with an area of 126 m², and it was built in 1877. The office was initially called "Haiguan Jixinju" (海关寄信局) and it offered postal services to diplomatic missions. The Qing government established Post Office of Qing Dynasty (大清邮政) in 1896, and reorganized the office into the Beihai bureau in 1897. Now it is an exhibition hall for the history of postal service.

■ How to get there: Take the No. 4 (5/6/10)/Zhulin/Mini bus and get off at Renmin Juchang (人民剧场) Station. Then go northwest on Heping Lu (和平路) or go north on Jiefang Lu (解放路) and you will reach Zhongshan Lu (中山路). Also, you can take the No. 2 bus and get off at Waishaqiao (外沙桥) Station. Then walk about 150 m north on Sichuan Lu (四川路) and you will reach Zhuhai Xilu (珠海西路).

Bus No. 4 (4路): 6:30~18:00, ¥2.00
Bus No. 5 (5路): 6:10~23:30, ¥1.50
Bus No. 6 (6路): 6:30~18:00, ¥2.00
Bus No. 10 (10路): 6:40~18:00, ¥3.50
Zhulin line (竹林专线): 6:40~17:30, ¥4.50
Minibus line (公交支线1): 6:45~19:30, ¥1.50
Bus No. 2 (2路): 6:15~21:00, ¥1.50

Shajijie (沙脊街)

Shajijie is the first street in Beihai, which was built by expanding Jiuquxiang (九曲巷) in 1821. The street is located between Zhongshan Lu and Zhuhai Lu, and it is over 400 m in length, 2 m in width. It got its name because it was built on a raised area of sand. The current official name of the street is "Minjian Yixiang" (民建一巷).

Soon after construction of the Shajijie, a 270 m long street named Zhonghuajie (中华街) was built on the east, and a 248 m long street named Xinghuajie (兴华街) was built 20-30 years later. The three streets formed the earliest center of economy and culture in Beihai. At that time, the Shajijie was lined with grocery stores, tea houses, restaurants, pawnshops, etc. And Guyipu (故衣铺, a store trading in old clothes) were concentrated in Zhonghuajie, and there were a lot of Kezhan (客栈, an inn) in Xinghuajie.

Yixianlou (宜仙楼)

Yixianlou is a two-story brick and wood frame building, and it was built in 1906. The place was a tea house, and also an inn, and it was known as "the best restaurant of Beihai" (北海第一楼). And it was also renowned for making mooncakes. In 1909, Qi Baishi (齐白石, an influential Chinese painter) stayed here on his way to Qinzhou (钦州).

Waisha (外沙)

Waisha is located in the north of Beihai, and it is a long narrow island stretching from east to west. The island is joined to land by a 60 m long bridge named "Waishaqiao" (外沙桥). The date of formation is unknown, but the Tanka people have lived here for a long time.

After the Chinese economic reform (1978), the Tanka began operating food stalls that serve seafood dishes on the island. And there were 72 food stalls in the early '90s. Since the late 90s, after extensive remodeling and construction, the island has become a tourist attraction that has many restaurants. Now it is also a trading center for the seafood produced in the surrounding areas.

Longmumiao (龙母庙)

Longmumiao was built in 1823, and it was destroyed and rebuilt twice. The temple enshrines Longmu (龙母)^[2], Northern Emperor (北帝, Xuan Wu) and Guan Di (关帝, Guan Yu).

The "Qifu" (祈福, pray for blessings) event is held on the 16th day of the first lunar month, and the "Huanfu" (还福, thank god for blessings) event is held on the 16th day of the twelfth lunar month. It is a ceremony that people pay respects to the sea spirits, and it has a long history. In particular there is a parade that local people beat drums and gongs and perform lion dances and dragon dances on the 16th day of the twelfth lunar month. And there is also a big event on the 18th day of the fifth lunar month (the Birthday of Longmu), and small ceremonies on the birthdays of other gods.

■ How to get there: Take the No. 2 bus and get off at Waishaqiao (外沙桥) Station. Then walk about 300 m north on Sichuan Lu (四川路) and cross the bridge.

1.     Qilou (骑楼) is a type of residential-commercial building of the early modern period. It is characterized by the corridor of the first floor, which is used for the pedestrian path.

2.     Longmu (龙母) is a Chinese woman who is deified as a goddess. According to legend, Longmu was born in Guangdong during the Qin Dynasty. She raised five dragons and helped people to overcome natural disasters.