Beihai Laojie (北海老街)
Laojie is a term for Zhongshan
Lu (中山路) and Zhuhai Lu (珠海路). Zhongshan Lu is a road that crosses the old downtown area from east to
west. The length of the road is 2 km, and the width is 9 m. Its original name was Niuchelu (牛车路), and it was formed during the
late Qing Dynasty. In 1927, the road was expanded and renamed to honor Sun
Yat-sen (孫中山).
Zhuhai
Lu is about 100 m north of Zhongshan Lu, and it was built in 1883. The road
is 1.44 km in length, 9 m in width, and it consists of three parts, east, middle and
west. There are a variety of two- or three-story Qilou (骑楼)[1] along the street. Zhuhai Lu was the busiest street in
Beihai. The stores on the street traded mainly in dried fish and seafood, silk
and satin from Suhang (苏杭), fishing tackle, etc. The trade
declined gradually after 1927, and the street became a residential area. In the
early modern period, Zhuhai Lu was highly acclaimed by Chinese and foreign
historians and architects, and therefore it has been turned into a tourist
attraction.
PS:
There is also a television drama (name: "海鲨1号") set in Laojie.
Moruxiang (摸乳巷)
There are about 23 alleys in the Laojie area, and the narrowest alley is Moruxiang. Moruxiang, also called Gentleman Alley (君子巷), is located over 50
m east of the intersection of Zhuhai Xilu (珠海西路) and Sichuan Lu (四川路). It is less than 200 m in length, 70 cm in width, and it connects Zhuhai Lu with Shajijie (沙脊街). It was said that there were several brothels in the area and thus the alley got its funny name. The alleys in Laojie were built so narrow in
order to avoid strong winds.
Maruichi Drugstore (丸一药房)
Maruichi Drugstore is a three-story Qilou located in Zhuhai Zhonglu (珠海中路), and it
was founded by Junzo Nakano (中野
順三). Now it
is turned into the Beihai National Security Education Center (北海市国家安全教育馆). On one
side of the entrance there can be seen a plate which is inscribed with a description of the 9-3 Incident (九三事件).
◇
9-3 Incident (九三事件): Junzo Nakano was allegedly accused of spying
for the Japanese army and killed in his shop on September 3rd, 1936. The
Japanese army approached the coast of Beihai and
attempted to land twice on the excuse of his death. After several rounds of
negotiations, the situation was settled at the
end of the year.
Beihai Ming-Qing Woodcarving Museum (北海明清木雕博物馆)
It is a private museum located in Zhuhai Zhonglu and has thousands of wood
carvings of the Ming-Qing era.
Yongjilong (永濟隆)
Yongjilong is one of the earliest reinforced concrete
buildings in Beihai,
and it is located in Zhuhai Zhonglu. It was built in 1930 and owned by Chen
Baitang (陈柏堂, a native of Fangcheng (防城, Fangchenggang)). His cousin, Chen Jitang (陈济棠), often stayed here on his way home during his government of the
Guangdong province (1929~1936). And the building was used as the military
headquarters of the Kuomintang before liberation (1949).
Xitai (戏台)
Xitai is an outdoor theater located in Zhuhai Donglu (珠海东路).
Cantonese opera (粵劇, a type
of Chinese opera originating in southern China's Cantonese culture) was introduced into Beihai during
the late Qing Dynasty. Local residents invited theater companies here on
holidays. There were 8~9 Xiyuan (戏院, special theater) in Beihai
during the Minguo (民国) period.
◇
City Theater Company of Beihai (北海市粤剧团): It has
performed 178 Cantonese operas since foundation in 1951, such as Baoliandeng (宝莲灯, Lotus Lantern), Honglou Eryou (红楼二尤, a part of the Dream of the Red Chamber), Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai (梁山伯与祝英台,
Butterfly Lovers), etc. Current representative works include modern operas such
as Chaozhang Chaoluo (潮涨潮落), Haimen Zhuchao (海门珠潮), Liuxingyu (流星雨, meteor shower), Zhuhuan Hepu
(珠还合浦), etc.
Jielongqiao Shuangshuijing (接龙桥双水井)
There are two water wells made of blue bricks in Zhuhai Donglu. They are named
for a stone bridge named "Jielongqiao" (接龙桥) that existed
nearby. The wells were built and owned by the Pang family, and they have more than 200
years of history. They are 4~5 m in depth, 1.7~1.8 m in diameter, and the
outside are made of granite blocks. The two wells are placed north to south at
intervals of about 3 m. The north well has an octagon shape, and the south one
has a hexagon shape. During the late Qing and early Minguo period, the water of
the wells not only supplied the neighborhood, but was also sold to freighters
by using a canal next to the well.
◇
Guanyintang Shuangshuijing (观音堂双水井)
The wells are also called "Ganlujing" (甘露井) and located at the
west end of Heping Lu (和平路). They are named for a Guanyintang (观音堂, a temple
dedicated to Guanyin) that existed nearby. The date of building is unknown, but they were renovated in 1887. The two wells are placed north to south at intervals of over 2 m. The
north well has a hexagon shape, and the south one has an octagon shape. And
there are three stones embedded in the wall north of the wells. The middle
stone is a shrine to the god of wells, and the writing on the left and right
stones records the reason for the renovation and the names of donors. During
the late Qing and early Minguo period, most of the residents of Laojie fetched
drinking water from the wells here.
◇
Qixi Water (七夕水)
On the seventh
day of the seventh lunar month, there is a custom
that the residents of Laojie gather around the well to draw water before noon.
The water doesn't go bad for a long time, and it is said that it has the effect
of "清热解毒" and can be used to treat
Chuangdu (疮毒, a boil). People usually put the
water into a jar for a night and then use to steep winter melons. And some
people even seal the jar for a month and then use the water. That night there
is also a custom that people draw water from the wells and use to wash their
hair or bodies. It is believed to make bad luck go away.
Beihaiguan Dalou (北海关大楼旧址)
The Old Custom House of Beihai is located at the east
end of Zhuhai Donglu,
and it is the first customs house in Beihai. The customs house is a three-story, Xuanlang (券廊式) style square building with an area of 1000 m2, and it was
built in 1883. The Beihai Customs was established in 1877, and it was
called "Beihaiguan" (北海关) for short. At that time westerners held most of the important posts
such as Inspector (税务司), Deputy Inspector, Assistant (帮办), etc.
Qing Dynasty Post Office of Beihai (大清邮政北海分局旧址)
The post office is located near the intersection of
Zhongshan Donglu (中山东路) and Haiguan Lu (海关路). It is a one-story rectangle building with an area of 126 m2,
and it was built in 1877. The office was initially called "Haiguan
Jixinju" (海关寄信局) and it offered postal services to diplomatic
missions. The Qing
government established Post Office of Qing Dynasty (大清邮政) in
1896, and reorganized the office into the Beihai bureau in 1897. Now it is an
exhibition hall for the history of postal service.
■ How to get there: Take the No. 4
(5/6/10)/Zhulin/Mini bus and get off at Renmin Juchang (人民剧场) Station. Then go northwest on Heping Lu (和平路) or go north on Jiefang Lu (解放路) and you will reach Zhongshan Lu (中山路). Also, you can take the No. 2 bus and get off at Waishaqiao (外沙桥) Station. Then walk about 150 m north on Sichuan Lu (四川路) and you will reach Zhuhai Xilu (珠海西路).
Bus No. 4 (4路): 6:30~18:00, ¥2.00Bus No. 5 (5路): 6:10~23:30, ¥1.50
Bus No. 6 (6路): 6:30~18:00, ¥2.00
Bus No. 10 (10路): 6:40~18:00, ¥3.50
Zhulin line (竹林专线): 6:40~17:30, ¥4.50
Minibus line (公交支线1): 6:45~19:30, ¥1.50
Bus No. 2 (2路): 6:15~21:00, ¥1.50
Shajijie (沙脊街)
Shajijie is the first street in Beihai, which was
built by expanding
Jiuquxiang (九曲巷) in 1821.
The street is located between Zhongshan Lu and Zhuhai Lu, and it is over 400 m in
length, 2 m in width. It got its name because it was built on a raised area of sand. The
current official name of the street is "Minjian Yixiang" (民建一巷).
Soon after construction of the Shajijie, a 270 m long
street named Zhonghuajie (中华街) was
built on the east, and a 248 m long street named Xinghuajie (兴华街) was built 20-30 years later. The three streets
formed the earliest center of economy and culture in Beihai. At that time, the
Shajijie was lined with grocery stores, tea houses, restaurants, pawnshops,
etc. And Guyipu (故衣铺, a store trading in old clothes) were
concentrated in Zhonghuajie, and there were a lot of Kezhan (客栈, an inn) in
Xinghuajie.
Yixianlou (宜仙楼)
Yixianlou is a two-story brick and wood frame
building, and it was built in 1906. The place was a tea house, and also an inn,
and it was known as "the
best restaurant of
Beihai" (北海第一楼). And it was also
renowned for making mooncakes. In 1909, Qi Baishi (齐白石, an influential
Chinese painter) stayed
here on his way to Qinzhou (钦州).
Waisha (外沙)
Waisha
is located in the north of Beihai, and it is a long narrow island stretching
from east to west. The island is joined to land by a 60 m long bridge
named "Waishaqiao" (外沙桥). The date of formation is
unknown, but the Tanka people have lived here for a long time.
After
the Chinese economic reform (1978), the Tanka began operating food stalls that
serve seafood dishes on the island. And there were 72 food stalls in the early
'90s. Since the late 90s, after extensive remodeling and construction, the
island has become a tourist attraction that has many restaurants. Now it is also a trading center for the seafood produced in the surrounding areas.
Longmumiao
(龙母庙)
Longmumiao
was built in 1823, and it was destroyed and rebuilt twice. The temple enshrines
Longmu (龙母)[2], Northern Emperor
(北帝, Xuan Wu) and Guan Di (关帝, Guan Yu).
The "Qifu"
(祈福, pray for blessings) event is held on the 16th day of the first lunar
month, and the "Huanfu" (还福, thank god
for blessings) event is held on the 16th day of the twelfth lunar month. It is
a ceremony that people pay respects to the sea spirits, and it has a long
history. In particular there is a parade that local people beat drums and gongs
and perform lion dances and dragon dances on the 16th day of the twelfth lunar
month. And there is also a big event on the 18th day of the fifth lunar month
(the Birthday of Longmu), and small ceremonies on the birthdays of other gods.
■ How to get there: Take the No. 2
bus and get off at Waishaqiao (外沙桥) Station. Then walk
about 300 m north on
Sichuan Lu (四川路) and cross the bridge.
1. Qilou (骑楼) is a type of residential-commercial building of the early modern
period. It is characterized by the corridor of the first floor, which is used
for the pedestrian path.
2. Longmu (龙母) is a Chinese woman who is
deified as a goddess. According to legend, Longmu was born in Guangdong during the Qin Dynasty. She raised five dragons and helped people to overcome
natural disasters.
