Beihai Food③

Gwa pei cu (瓜皮醋)

Gwa pei cu is a traditional food of Beihai that is made of Guapi (瓜皮, a type of salted cucumber), pork belly, ginger, sugar, vinegar. It has the effects of "暖胃", "补血", "散瘀", and it is also good for the skin. Deep in the past, the family with a woman who was in the period of Zuoyuezi (坐月子) made Gwa pei cu for nourishing the mother in rural areas. And they also gave their relatives and friends as presents for sharing good fortune. Now Gwa pei cu has become a home-style dish in Beihai, and it can also be found in markets.

PS: The custom that the woman who is in the period of Zuoyuezi eats Gwa pei cu as a nourishing food still remains in Beihai.

Guapi

Sa haai jap (沙蟹汁)

Sa haai jap is a gray liquid made by mixing crushed Shaxie (沙蟹, a kind of crab), salt, garlic, ginger, baijiu (白酒) and then exposing to the sun. It is a condiment unique to Beihai, and it has a distinctive flavor. The condiment smells a bit fishy, but very tasty, and it helps to stimulate the appetite. It is usually served to accompany Baak juk (白粥, a congee that has no other things added to it), and it can also be used as a dip for white cut chicken (白切鸡/白斩鸡, a Cantonese chicken dish). Sa haai jap is usually found in street stalls in autumn, and it can also be seen in some Jiulou (酒楼). 

Shaxie

white cut chicken

◇      "Sa haai jap man dau gok" (沙蟹汁焖豆角) is a dish made by cooking Doujiao (豆角, the pods of yardlong beans) with water and Sa haai jap after stir-frying.

Laam chin (榄钱)

Laam chin is the fruit of Baigurang (白骨壤, a subspecies of Avicennia marina). It tastes slightly bitter and has the effects of "清热", "利尿", "凉血". Laam chin is usually found in markets in summer and autumn, and it can also be seen in some restaurants.

◇      "Laam chin man che lo" (榄钱焖车螺) is a dish made by cooking Laam chin with water and Wenge (文蛤, Meretrix lusoria) after stir-frying.

Coi tau gou (菜头糕)

Coi tau gou, i.e. turnip cake (萝卜糕), is a Chinese dim sum dish made of shredded white radish (Beihainese people (北海人) call it "Coi tau" (菜头)) and rice flour. In Beihai, it is usually cut into square-shaped slices and pan-fried before serving with a sauce made of garlic, vinegar, etc. Coi tau gou is commonly seen in markets, and it can also be found in Chalou (茶楼) or hotels.

In the old days the local residents ate Coi tau gou during the Spring Festival (春节), since radish (菜头) is a homophone for "wealth grows" (财到) in Hakka dialect. The people usually made Coi tau gou before Chuxi (除夕, Chinese New Year's Eve), and then sliced and pan-fried them on the second day of the first lunar month. And they also shared with their relatives and neighbors.

Luk dau gou (绿豆糕)

Luk dau gou is a food unique to Beihai, and it usually has 3 layers. The upper and lower layers are made by steaming a mixture of Mijiang (米浆)/sweet potato powder and the liquid obtained by boiling mung beans, and the middle layer is filled with mung beans. The one made from rice is white and has a soft, smooth taste. And the one made from sweet potatoes is also called "Si fan gou" (薯粉糕), and it is brown or light gray and a bit chewy. Luk dau gou is usually seen in markets, and it can also be found in Chalou or Jiulou.

Ma tai gou (马蹄糕)

Ma tai gou, i.e. water chestnut cake, is a Cantonese dim sum dish made of Matifen (马蹄粉, a powder made by grinding Chinese water chestnuts). It has a chewy, sweet taste, and it is a nutritious health food. Ma tai gou is usually seen in markets, and it can also be found in Chalou, Jiulou and hotels. In the past, there was only white Ma tai gou in Beihai which contains chopped water chestnuts. But now the variety of Ma tai gou has increased greatly, for example there is mung bean cake, two-color cake, black sesame cake, Qianceng (千层) cake, etc.

Leng fan/Liangfen (凉粉)

Leng fan/Liangfen, i.e. grass jelly, is a jelly-like food made from liangfencao (凉粉草). The jelly has a smooth, slightly bitter taste, and it is usually served with honey or sugar syrup. There are three types of liangfen in Beihai: Lvliangfen (绿凉粉), Heiliangfen (黑凉粉) and Bailiangfen (白凉粉). Lvliangfen is a traditional liangfen, and it is translucent green in color. The liangfen is made by cooking a mixture of Mijiang (米浆) and the liquid obtained by boiling the fresh leaves of liangfencao and then cooling to a jelly-like consistency. Heiliangfen is translucent black and made from the dried stalks and leaves of liangfencao. Bailiangfen is colorless and transparent, and it is made from Liangfenguo (凉粉果, the fruit of Ficus pumila). Now Lvliangfen is something of a rarity, and it can only be found in street stalls. Heiliangfen and Bailiangfen are mostly sold in cans or packets in supermarkets.

◇      Liangfencao (凉粉草, Mesona chinensis), also called xiancao (仙草), is a plant in the Lamiaceae family. It is found in Zhejiang (浙江), Jiangxi (江西), Guangdong (广东), Guangxi (广西), Taiwan (台湾), etc. The dried leaves or stalks are used in traditional Chinese medicine, and have the effects of "清热", "解暑", "解毒".

Tong sui (糖水)

Tong sui is a collective term for any sweet soup served as a dessert at the end of a meal (especially in summer) in Cantonese cuisine. There is a wide variety of tong sui, and it is mostly seen in Tangshuidian (糖水店, a stall that sells different types of tong sui). In addition, the Qiaonan Lu (侨南路) in Qiaogang (侨港) is well known for many Tangshuidian.

◇      Luk dau yi mai hoi daai tong sui (绿豆薏米海带糖水) is the most common tong sui in Beihai, and it is made of mung beans, Yimi (薏米, Job's Tears), Haidai (海带, Saccharina japonica). It is very easy to make, and also has the effects of "清热", "降火".

◇      Wu tau sai mai tong sui (芋头西米糖水) is a very common tong sui, and it is made of Yutou (芋头, the corm of taro) and Ximi (西米, sago).

Sa guk mai (沙谷米)

Sa guk mai is a traditional food produced in Qianjiang (乾江), Hepu (合浦). Its main ingredients are three types of sweet potatoes, Zhuangyuanshu (状元薯), Hongshu (红薯), Mushu (木薯). The food is slippery, a bit chewy, and the production process is very complicated. It is usually made into tong sui, and it can also be cooked with coconut milk or milk. Sa guk mai can be seen in markets, and Sa guk mai tong sui can be found in street stalls or Tangshuidian.

PS: In Qianjiang, aged Sa guk mai can be used as medicine.

Waai fa fan (槐花粉)

Waai fa fan is a food of Guangxi that is mainly eaten in summer, and it is made from Huaihua (槐花, Styphnolobium japonicum) and rice. The food is yellow in color and somewhat slippery, and it is usually made into tong sui. Waai fa fan can be seen in markets, and Waai fa fan tong sui can be found in street stalls.

Huaihua

Huaihua (crude drug)

Doufuhua (豆腐花)

Doufuhua is a pudding-like food made by coagulating soy milk with gypsum, Lushui (卤水, magnesium chloride), or other agents. The recipe varies from region to region, and there are generally two kinds. In North China, doufuhua is called doufunao (豆腐脑), and it is often eaten with soy sauce. On the other hand, it is usually served with sugar syrup in South China. In Beihai, doufuhua can be found in street stalls or Tangshuidian.

Dan daan (炖蛋)

Dan daan is categorized as tong sui, and it is made by steaming a mixture of beaten eggs, water (milk can be used instead of water) and sugar. It is easy to make, and also very nutritious. Dan daan is usually found in Tangshuidian.

Tim jau tong yin (甜酒汤圆) and Tim jau gai daan (甜酒鸡蛋)

Tim jau, i.e. Jiuniang (酒酿), is a food made by fermenting glutinous rice with a starter called Jiuqu (酒曲). The food is sweet and has a low alcohol content, and it is a favorite of Beihainese people during autumn and winter. It is usually cooked with tangyuan (汤圆) or eggs. Tim jau can be seen in markets, and Tim jau tong yin and Tim jau gai daan can be found in Tangshuidian.

PS: There is a custom that the woman who is in the period of Zuoyuezi (坐月子) eats Tim jau tong yin or Tim jau gai daan as a nourishing food.

Fa saang fu (花生糊)

Fa saang fu is a kind of tong sui, and it is made from ground peanuts and ground rice. It is typically served hot. Fa saang fu and Xianjianbing were once popular breakfast items in Beihai. Now Fa saang fu is something of a rarity, and it can only be found in Tangshuidian.

Beihai Food②

Lau sa baau (流沙包)

Lau sa baau is a kind of Cantonese baozi, and it contains a sweet yellow filling, which is made by mixing custard, butter and salted duck egg yolks. The baozi is one of the favorite breakfast foods for local people, and it is commonly seen in Zaocandian (早餐店, a restaurant that provides only breakfast), Chalou (茶楼, a restaurant that serves tea, dim sum and simple dishes), Jiulou (酒楼, a restaurant that serves banquets) and hotels.

Wonton (云吞)

Wonton is a kind of Cantonese food, and it derives from Huntun (馄饨), which is a type of dumpling commonly found in North China. Wonton got its name because the Cantonese pronunciation of "馄饨" was similar to "云吞" when it was brought into South China. Ingredients typically include pork, shrimp, vegetables, scallions for the filling. Wontons are commonly boiled and served in a soup made with pig bones or seafood. They can also be served with noodles to make wonton noodles (云吞面). Wonton has been a favorite breakfast food of Beihainese people (北海人) since the Qing dynasty (清朝), and now it is commonly seen in Zaocandian.

Gin fan (卷粉)

Gin fan originates from Vietnam, and it is made by rolling the Fenpian (粉片, a thin, wide sheet of steamed rice) after filling with ground pork, chopped wood ear mushrooms and other ingredients. It is usually served with vinegar, soy sauce and chili sauce. Gin fan has a soft, smooth taste, and it is a favorite breakfast food of Beihainese people.

Qiaogang Town (侨港镇) is the place where the overseas Chinese from Vietnam were settled during the wave of refugees in the late 1970s. Gin fan was introduced into Beihai at that time. As time passes, it has formed a unique style in both taste and the way it is made. Now Vietnamese Gin fan can be still seen in Qiaogang. And Beihai Gin fan can be seen around markets and some old residential areas.

He fen (河粉)

He fen is also called shahe fen (沙河粉), and it is a type of Chinese noodle commonly found in Guangdong and Southeast Asia. Shahe fen got its name because it originated in Shahe Town (沙河镇), Guangzhou. The noodles are white in color, broad, and somewhat slippery, and their texture is elastic and a bit chewy.

Chaau fan (炒粉)

Chaau fan is a dish made by stir-frying he fen noodles. The dish is popular with the citizens of Beihai because it is easy to make and is also delicious. It is commonly seen in restaurants, Chalou, Jiulou and hotels.

Tong fan (汤粉)

He fen is often boiled and served in a soup. The dish is called Tong fan. There is Ngau naam fan (牛腩粉), Ji ge fan (猪脚粉), Ngau nyo fan (牛肉粉), Gai si fan (鸡丝粉), etc. These dishes are commonly seen in Zaocandian.

Ngau naam fan is the Tong fan which is served with cooked brisket. The brisket is usually dipped into chili sauce before eating.

Ji ge fan is the Tong fan which is served with cooked pigs' feet.

Ngau nyo fan is the Tong fan which is served with beef.

Gai si fan comes from Vietnam, and it features tender shredded chicken and delicious chicken soup.

PS: Beihainese people like Ngau naam fan and Ji ge fan in particular.

Jin deui (煎堆)

Jin deui is a hollow fried pastry made from glutinous rice flour. The pastry is coated with sesame seeds on the outside, and it is crisp and chewy. The origin of jin deui can be traced back to the Tang dynasty (唐朝) as a palace food in Chang'an (长安), known as Ludui (碌堆). Then the food was brought into South China, with the southward migration of many peoples from central China (中原).

In Beihai, Jin deui was a special food for Spring Festival (春节) in the past, and it was symbolic of reunion (团圆) and happiness (甜蜜). Now it has become a snack food, and it is commonly seen in street stalls or markets.

Matong (麻通)

Matong is a fried food made from glutinous rice. It is coated with sesame seeds on the outside and is stuffed with sugar threads. Matong has a crispy, sweet taste, and it is a nutritious health food. The production process is very complicated and varies from region to region. In Beihai, it can be seen in markets before and after the Spring Festival. And the ones from Xiaodong Town (小董镇), Qinzhou (钦州) are the most famous. They are called Xiaodong matong (小董麻通), and their main ingredients are glutinous rice and corms of taro.

Guixiangbing (桂香饼)

Guixiangbing is a traditional baked food of Beihai that is made from rice and glutinous rice. It is coated with sesame seeds on the outside, so it is also called Zhimabing (芝麻饼). Guixiangbing can be seen in markets or supermarkets before and after the Spring Festival.

The people in Hepu (合浦) usually make guixiangbing during the Spring Festival. Not only for family consumption, but also give their relatives and friends as presents. For example, when a son-in-law visits the home of his wife's parents (拜年) on the second day of the first lunar month, guixiangbing (even number) are essential gifts.

Misan (米散)

Misan is a traditional food of Beihai that is made from glutinous rice. It was used for entertaining guests in the past, and it was mostly made into tong sui (糖水, eggs and Yuanrou (圆肉) can be added). Now misan can be found in markets, and there is a wide variety of recipes, e.g. fruit misan, coffee misan, flowering tea misan.

There are two kinds, common misan and Weizhou (涠洲) misan. Common misan can be seen especially in Hepu, and it is closely related to childbirth. For example, women eat Egg misan tong sui during the period of Zuoyuezi (坐月子)^[1]. And the misan is one of the gifts from the woman's parents on Shierzhao (十二朝, the 12th day after the birth of a boy) or Shizhao (十朝, the 10th day after the birth of a girl), and it is also one of the foods served at the party on that day. Weizhou misan is a food unique to Weizhou Island. The people of Weizhou use local peanuts to make misan during the Spring Festival. Not only for family consumption, but also give their relatives and friends as presents.

Daan saan (蛋散)

Daan saan is a Cantonese fried dough food made with eggs and lard. It has a crispy and sweet taste. Daan saan was commonly seen in Hepu in the past. But now it is something of a rarity, and it can only be found in street stalls.

◇ "Daan saan" (蛋散) is a pejorative in Cantonese that denotes an utterly ignorant, worthless person.

Huashengtang (花生糖)

Huashengtang is a confection made of peanuts and sugar. It is eaten as a snack or as an accompaniment to drinks, and it is commonly seen in shops or supermarkets. Beihai huashengtang is made by dissolving brown sugar in oil and then mixing with peanuts. It is very easy to make, and therefore some families will make it by themselves on holidays.

The Hakka people (客家人) of the Beihai area begin farming after Longtaitou (龙抬头)^[2]. Then they use the remaining peanuts to make huashengtang and wish for happiness. In addition, huashengtang are needed when relatives and friends gather around the Huotang (火塘)^[4] and chat during the period of Shousui (守岁)^[3].

Jaau faan si (炸番薯)

Jaau faan si, also called "Faan si baa" (番薯巴), is a fried snack made from sweet potatoes and rice flour. The snack is crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and it has the sweet taste of sweet potato. It is usually seen in the stalls in Laojie (老街).

◇ Beihai also produces a lot of sweet potatoes. In particular, the ones from Shankou Town (山口镇), Hepu County are of good quality and they are tender and very sweet.

Xianjianbing (咸煎饼)

Jianbing (煎饼) is a Chinese pan-fried dough food made from grain flour. In Beihai, Xianjianbing is a fried dough food made with salt and sugar. It is crisp and a little salty, but it has a sweet aftertaste. In the past, Beihainese people often had Xianjianbing and Fa saang fu (花生糊, peanut soup)/soy milk for breakfast, and the children often ate Xianjianbing for snacks. Now Xianjianbing is something of a rarity, and it can only be found in the stalls in Laojie (老街).

Niuba (牛巴)

Niuba is a beef product unique to Guangxi. The beef has a good smell and a chewy taste, and it is eaten as a dish or as an accompaniment to drinks. In particular, the one from Yulin (玉林) is famous for its long history. In Beihai, niuba is commonly seen in markets. And there is also a known stall in Hepu called "正蔡牛巴".

1. Zuoyuezi (坐月子) is a traditional custom of postpartum confinement.

2. Longtaitou (龙抬头) refers to the second day of the second month of the Chinese calendar, and it symbolizes the beginning of farming.

3. Shousui (守岁) is a traditional custom that people pass a sleepless night on Chuxi (除夕, Chinese New Year's Eve).

4. Huotang (火塘) is a brick-lined fireplace dug in the ground.